Remember the pants that just didn’t “feel” right, the armhole that restricted movement, the buttons that pulled and the neckline that gaped? Even though the garments were technically the correct size, something was not quite right because the patterns the garments were cut from did not correlate to your body’s unique bumps and curves. Whether a pattern is drafted with paper and pencil or a computer and mouse, the end fit of a garment resides in the pattern.
Behind every garment lies the pattern from which it was cut so the key to substantial fit improvement is to identify why current methods of pattern customization have failed and to provide a solution.
Traditional pattern drafting methods used for ready-to-wear and made-to-measure position seams and darts according to generalized rules which do not produce a truly customized fit. Seamstresses, tailors and couturiers position seams and darts according to the unique bumps and curves of an individual. Shaping for body weight, height and girth distribution is the missing ingredient for mass garment customization.
The following diagram illustrates how bone structure as well as muscle and fat distribution can cause variations in body shape even within a given garment size. Notice how the sideseams of the individuals vary. Also notice how some figures have their body weight evenly split between the front and back of the body while others have a substantial imbalance.
Until now only bespoke tailors, seamstresses and couturiers could achieve such a custom level of fit. “Fine tuning of fit” has long been associated with a level of garment customization available to only a limited few. With Intelligent Shaping™ MTM patterns can adjust for cup size, keep side seams vertical, manipulate darting to balance body girth and fabric grain, correct for posture variations, adjust shoulder slope, tailor arm swing, and offer enhanced movement. Intelligent Shaping™ can replicate the fit previously only achieved with physical hand garment fittings.
Intelligent Shaping™ is an application containing a series of nested algorithms that compare the Fit Profile™ of a garment design to the Fit Profile™ of an individual.
It uses algorithmic nested logic to determine optimum line width and girth without distorting the base fit of a pattern. It balances customized fit with fabric grain and design integrity. The following diagram illustrates the superior computing capabilities of new shaping methodologies against the old. Old methodologies correct girth measurements but have no ability to “reason” where the correction should take place. The diagram below illustrates subtle waist shaping for figures in the same size range. The figures on the left illustrate traditional shaping methodologies and the figures on the right illustrate Intelligent Shaping™ methodologies. Most traditional customization is accomplished through side seam adjustment which, as illustrated below, is not always appropriate.
Intelligent Shaping™ allows for body height corrections in much the same way. The following diagram illustrates three patterns the same length but with different waist and bust positions. Current MTM methodologies would use the same pattern for all figures resulting in substandard fit. Correcting for nuances in body height distribution drastically improves the fit of garments as it allows shaping and darting to start and end at the correct position. Without height correction a figures waist shaping could be above or below their custom waist area and bust darting would be awkwardly placed.
Nuanced body height distribution as illustrated below is subtle yet key to proper garment fit and fabric drape and hang.
Intelligent Shaping™ identifies the custom shaping required to fit an individual’s unique body, compares that shaping to the requirements of a given design to suggest drafting protocols for the desired garment design. This “reasoning” is accomplished in a proprietary database application and most importantly, it is gender neutral.
Current MTM technologies offer line adaptation for pattern customization but, because these technologies have been instructed with traditional pattern drafting methods, they offer limited ability to customize darts and limited fit improvement over RTW.
Intelligent Shaping™ breaks key fit lines up into segments so darting can be incorporated where appropriate. Where traditional MTM technologies can only offer basic side seam girth corrections, Intelligent Shaping™ directs girth corrections based on body weight, height and girth distribution. Extensive anthropometric research has shown darting and shaping effects fabric grain as much as it affects garment fit.
Intelligent Shaping™ has been developed as a database for easy integration into existing CAD MTM applications. For demonstration purposes, shaping instructions may be printed for manual pattern adaptations.
Contact me to see a visual demonstration of superior customized fit.