Most CAD (computer automated design) programs include an automatic function for customizing patterns to an individual’s unique measurements. With this feature a pattern that is close to an individual’s size is tweaked to accommodate girth and height deviations. A good percentage of the time the feature works well but on outlier figures the additional length or girth required causes oddly shaped side seams. When this happens the side seams must be corrected or “trued” to straighten the seam so that it is suitable for sewing.
The problem is that truing the side seam often removes the very girth that is needed to customize the pattern for an individual.
The situation appears contradictory because the girth that is required does not produce a seam that can be sewn in fabric. The situation occurs because body weight and height distribution has not been fully analyzed and accounted for. Strictly adding girth or length to a pattern is an over simplistic analysis of body shape that does not take fabric grain into account. Customization of a pattern involves reconciling the girth of one body area with the areas above and below. This involves customizing shaping and darting individually.
Intelligent Shaping™ is an application that analyzes body weight and height distribution so that MTM programs are given measurements and darts, via line lengths, that will produce trued seams.
Until now such analysis was delegated to highly skilled tailors during physical hand fittings. Now that skilled reasoning has been distilled into a series of nested algorithms inside an application called Intelligent Shaping™.